Beijing certainly takes some getting used to: the heat, the crowds, the language, the directness of the people. I think the key with all big cities is to seek out the things you'll like and ignore the rest. I'm not a big fan of the pushy selling tactics and bargaining, so after making a few (probably unwise) purchases on the first day, have avoided markets and the like. My favourite things so far:
A guided tour of some of the hutongs (narrow alleyways of old Beijing) by bicycle. This was a great way to whizz around some of the nice old areas which haven't changed much over the years and where daily life for many Beijingers is very much on view.
The Great Wall. I took a tour which went to a section further away, and was glad I did. Of course there were plenty of people, but not crammed in, and every now and then there was a stretch of the wall to be seen with no people on it. Really beautiful.
Beihai Park. This smallish park just outside the Forbidden City is mainly a big lake, and it was a real treat to walk around it on Friday evening and see loads of locals getting away from the hustle and bustle. The heat is draining, but it makes these waterside oases of calm so important.
The Beijing museum of Urban Planning. Not a very exciting sounding name but a really interesting place with loads of 3D, model and film exhibits showing the historical development of the city and what the plan is for the next 10 years. It probably gives a better feeling of the scale of the Foribidden City than the place itself (which I'm planning to visit after the weekend). And the other great thing is that there were hardly any people there!
Not-so-great things: my sore feet, trying to book train tickets for the rest of the trip, failing to communicate entirely, even so far as ordering a cup of tea, very slow internet. But on the whole it's going well. Tomorrow: first sleeper train to the small walled town of Pingyao. Looking forward to it (I think...)
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